Etched Back into Existence

John Cunningham and George Turner died while on the 1874 Black Hills Expedition with the 7th U.S. Cavalry. Private Cunningham died of chronic diarrhea on July 21 and Private Turner died from a gunshot wound inflicted by another trooper, over an argument about a cross-hobbled horse on July 22. Both were buried on the night of July 22nd, south of present day Sundance, Wyoming.

For nearly 100 years, the graves remained unmarked. On Veteran's Day 1968, the graves were marked with military stones and Cunningham and Turner were given the respect due them. Downloading the below image will allow you to zoom in.

Casper Star Tribune; Casper, Wyoming; November 07, 1968

The following appeared in the Casper Star Tribune five years later, commemorating the 100th anniversary of the deaths of Cunningham and Turner:

Casper Star Tribune; Casper, Wyoming; July 18, 1974

Monument to Horatio Ross

Although not a trooper, Horatio Ross had an impact on George Custer's life. He was one of two miners who accompanied the 1874 Black Hills Expedition. News of the expedition was followed closely in the newspapers across the country. Its mission was to look for suitable locations for a fort in the area. 

There had been rumors of gold in the Black Hills for years. Custer brought along two miners, Horatio Ross and William McKay, to investigate the possibility of minerals in the area, particularly the "yellow metal that made the white man crazy." And they found it. Later, the Homestake Gold Mine, near Deadwood in the Black Hills, would become the largest producing gold mine in the Western Hemisphere. The mine produced more than forty million troy ounces (43,900,000 oz; 1,240,000 kg) of gold during its lifetime. It closed in 2002.

Custer, South Dakota, celebrates its gold rush history every year with Gold Discovery Days.

Ross Monument in Custer, South Dakota

Forest City Press; Forest City, South Dakota; February 16, 1911

HORATIO ROSS PAGE

Going to the Black Hills

This year (2024) is the 150th anniversary of Custer's 1874 Black Hills Expedition. Since I live in South Dakota, the Expedition fascinates me. It was a precursor to the Battle of the Little Big Horn two years later.

The 1874 Expedition is mentioned in most books about Custer and the 7th U.S. Cavalry, however, there are two that are highly recommended and I consider them to be the "gold standard" of books about the excursion. These are: EXPLORING WITH CUSTER and CROSSING THE PLAINS WITH CUSTER. By reading both of these books, you will have a better and fuller understanding of this historical and important expedition.

The books contain diary entries of the participants, as well as observations by the various newspaper reporters that were along for the trip. There are maps galore to familiarize yourself with the route. But the highlight of both books are the incredible then and now photos. The original photos taken on the expedition by photographer William H. Illingworth are presented side by side with modern day views of the sites. The differences are stunning. But, even more amazing, are the things that have remained the same over 150 years. Believe it or not but burned trees and overturned stumps that appeared in the 1874 photos are still there today. The books are printed on high grade paper that make the photos jump off the pages.

After news of Custer's visit to the Black Hills hit the newspapers, the rush to find gold was on. Miners, prospectors, and settlers flooded into the Black Hills and the stream couldn't be stopped. This was a thorn in the Indians' side and led directly to Custer's death, as well as that of many of his men, two years later on the shores of the Greasy Grass River in what is now Montana.

The following article appeared in the March 28, 1876 edition of the Cheyenne Daily Leader. Cheyenne was one of the points offering outfitting to parties wishing to travel to the Black Hills.

In roughly three months after this article appeared, Custer and many of his officers and men would be dead.

Exploring with Custer

Promo ad for the Black Hills featuring Custer

I want to bring your attention to something special. Paul Horsted and Ernest Graffe have just announced a new edition to their wildly popular book, EXPLORING WITH CUSTER. 

In 1874, Custer led the U.S. 7th Cavalry on an expedition into the Black Hills of present day South Dakota. The existence of gold in the region was verified and the race was on. Since that time Custer's name and presence is all over the Black Hills. There's Custer county, the city of Custer, and of course, the crown jewel of the State park system - Custer State Park.

EXPLORING WITH CUSTER examines the expedition in detail. Newspapermen were along for the trip and their reports are contained within the text along with journal and diary entries from the participants. Lots of maps and charts allow you to travel along from the comfort of your easy chair. There are also GPS coordinates for trail spots that are located on public lands so you can go see for yourself what the 7th Cavalry saw. 

The real highlight of the book are the photos. In 1874, Custer brought along a photographer to document the trip and he took the first images of the Black Hills. The photographer, W.H. Illingworth, was able to capture some spectacular images of the scenery in the area. Those photos are laid out side-by-side with modern day depictions of the sites. In some cases, a lot of change is seen. In others, it is shocking how much has stayed the same over the last almost 150 years. 

Author Paul Horsted says this about the new edition: "This new, larger edition has been completely revised. We added 36 pages of photos, discoveries, Expedition landmarks, and new sources. Every photo site is updated, and historic photos have amazing clarity thanks to new scans of the original glass negatives. More than 260 photos and 135 maps are now included in the 336-page book."

You will not be disappointed with this book. I have literally spent hours staring at the eye-popping photos and scouring the maps. Order directly from Paul and you can get a signed copy of your very own. Be sure to order the new REVISED 4TH EDITION by clicking the link below.

PaulHorsted.com

Click here to read the newspaper announcement
that set off the Black Hills gold rush.

No Trespassing

Those of us who are interested in the Indian Wars of the Great Plains will often travel quite a distance to see a small marker, a "special" pile of rocks, or some other significant history related site. Many of these are either on private land or are only accessible by crossing private property. This post is meant as a reminder to please be respectful of landowners and ask permission to access or cross their property. 

One of the first posts I made on this website pertained to the John Cunningham and George Turner markers in Wyoming. Cunningham and Turner both died during Custer's 1874 Black Hills Expedition. Cunningham and Turner died under very different circumstances but were buried next to each other on a small hillside near the one of the Expedition's former campsites, 14 miles south of present-day Sundance, Wyoming.  

After the troopers were buried, fires were built atop their graves in an effort to conceal the plots. This was done to prevent the bodies from being disinterred by Indians.

The photos below are from my visit to the site back in June 2016.

John Cunningham and George Turner graves.

The Cunningham and Turner graves with Inyan Kara mountain in the distance.

A few weeks ago I decided to take a drive out to Devil's Tower, Wyoming. On the way I figured I would stop by the Cunningham/Turner graves and get some updated photos. Imagine my surprise when I was greeted with the following...

The graves are on the hillside and a No Trespassing sign has been posted.

No Trespassing sign closing off access to the Cunningham/Turner graves.

Further investigation has revealed that instead of simply walking the short distance to the graves, people were driving ATV vehicles up to the site. In addition a geocache was placed on the property and published to a popular website, drawing even more people to the area hunting for the hidden cache.

All this prompted the landowner to post No Trespassing signs on the property. Now the area is shutdown. Simple courtesy and respect was all that was needed to visit the site previously. All that has changed now due to the actions of a few idiots. 

Here are some Best Practices to follow when you’re out chasing history:

• Do not trespass; always respect private property. Obtain permission from the landowner.
• Never do anything that might contaminate wells, creeks or other water supplies.
• Respect the property. Leave gates as they are found, do not damage crops.
• Never deliberately disturb wild or domestic animals.
• Never litter. Always gather or collect any trash or debris you create or find.
• Leave as little sign of your passing as possible. 

A little common sense and respect will go a long way to insuring these sites are available for access in the future.

Custer’s 1874 Black Hills Camp of August 14-15th

The Black Hills Expedition of 1874 started out from Fort Abraham Lincoln on July 2. They returned on August 30. During the intervening time they explored, mapped, and photographed the area known as Paha Sapa, or Black Hills.

They weren’t the first to discover gold in the Black Hills but they were able to confirm it. The newspaper reports that followed ignited a gold rush. The gold rush Custer started inadvertently led to his death two years later at the Battle of the Little Big Horn.

The Expedition had spent roughly three weeks in the Black Hills. On August 14th, the 7th Cavalry made their exit from the Hills and found themselves on the surrounding plains. They were preparing to make the long journey back to Fort Lincoln. They made their camp in the shadow of Bear Butte, an important landmark and religious site to the Plains Indians.

Although he climbed the prominent Black Hills elevations of Inyan Kara and Harney (now Black Elk) Peak, Custer did not make it to the top of Bear Butte, although several of his soldiers did.

The troopers were able to spend two nights at this site, doing laundry and resting, before making their way across the prairie to Bismarck and Fort Lincoln.

Custer’s brother-in-law, Lieutenant James Calhoun, who was also killed at the Battle of the Little Big Horn, wrote in his diary of the trip on August 14, 1874: “We know that this is the best country that can be found in any of the Northwestern states, and when we move for days upon an open prairie beneath a burning sun, with nothing but warm alkali water to quench our thirst, we will be reminded of the many cold springs of pure water which flowed sweetly from the mountain side, and often will we turn round and cast a wistful desire toward these prominent hills which for many a day afforded us so much enjoyment.”

How to Visit on Your Own: From Interstate 90, take Exit 30. Drive east on Highway 34 for 5.3 miles. You will be near the Buffalo Chip Campground. Take a right (south) onto 131st Avenue (Fort Meade Way). Follow the road south two miles to reach Cattail Place. The historical marker for the camp will be on your left, near the road.  The campsite is located at 44°23'27.6"N 103°25'43.1"W.

Custer's August 14-15, 1874 campsite. 

Custer's campsite marker.

Bear Butte near Sturgis, South Dakota.

“There’s gold in them thar hills…”

General Custer led an expedition of the 7th U.S. Cavalry into the Black Hills in 1874. They spent almost two months traveling to, exploring, and traveling back home from the Black Hills (July 2, 1874 - August 30, 1874). From the point of view of the U.S. government the expedition was a resounding success. It almost certainly was a factor in what happened to Custer and the 7th Cavalry two years later on the Little Bighorn river in Montana.

Many of the troopers looked at the 1874 Black Hills Expedition as a type of vacation. It was a break from the rather mundane life of a trooper at a post on the Great Plains. Once they arrived in the Hills there was plenty of game, wild berries, and cold mountain stream water. Custer brought the 7th Cavalry band along on the trip and they serenaded the troops from the hilltops in the evening. There was even a baseball game held near their Permanent Camp just outside the present-day town of Custer, South Dakota.

The official mission was to locate an appropriate location for a fort. The Fort Laramie Treaty gave the Army that right. But another reason for the trip, unofficially, was to determine if the rumors of gold were true. Two experienced miners, Horatio Ross and William McKay, accompanied Custer. In addition to the miners, several others also attached themselves and came along for the fun - newspaper reporters, engineers, scientists, and luckily for present-day researchers, a photographer, William H. Illingworth.

Illingworth’s photo of the 7th Cavalry winding its way through the Black Hills.

Horatio Ross made the initial discovery of gold along French Creek. Scout Charley Reynolds carried the news of the gold discovery to Fort Laramie. From there the news was sent via telegraph to General Terry in St. Paul. Custer’s report stated:

“… gold has been found at several places, and it is the belief of those who are giving their attention to this subject that it will be found in paying quantities. I have on my table forty or fifty small particles of pure gold…most of it obtained today from one panful of earth.” *** Newspapers around the country picked up the story and the race was on. The Army tried to downplay the gold discovery and keep miners out of the Black Hills but you can’t unring a bell. There indeed was “gold in them thar Hills.” The Homestake Gold Mine near Lead, South Dakota, was the largest and deepest in North America, until its closing in 2002. The Homestake produced more than 40 million troy ounces of gold during its lifetime of operation. Click here or on the Bismarck Tribune image below to read the announcement of the gold discovery in the Black Hills as it appeared on August 12, 1874.

To learn more about Custer’s 1874 Black Hills Expedition, I would highly recommend the following books: Exploring With Custer: The 1874 Black Hills Expedition Crossing the Plains with Custer ***Custer’s official dispatch; August 2, 1874

Turner and Cunningham - Black Hills 1874

This site has always been dedicated to the soldiers of the 7th Cavalry who are buried in South Dakota. Technically they are not all members of the mighty 7th. Rose Courtney, for example, was a servant for Lt. George Wallace. Moses Flint was a packer. James McGee was a wagon master. But they are all tied to Custer and either served him directly or served someone who did.

This brings us to troopers Turner and Cunningham. Both were official members of the 7th Cavalry and accompanied Custer on his Black Hills Expedition of 1874. Sadly, the Black Hills were the end of the line for both of them. Both died on the expedition. But they are not technically part of the scope of this website as both are buried in Wyoming. They died before Custer and the 7th had entered the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Private John Cunningham died from complications of diarrhea on July 21, 1874.

Private Turner’s demise was a bit different…

Privates Roller and Turner were both members of M Troop. They had been having a long-time feud. One morning, Roller went to check on his horse and found that it had been hobbled, making it incapable of moving without falling down. Because of this incident Roller and Turner had a fatal showdown. Turner was mortally wounded in the abdomen by a gunshot from Roller.

Turner and Cunningham were both buried near Inyan Kara Creek near the Expedition’s camp #19, about 14 miles south of present-day Sundance, Wyoming. After the troopers were buried, fires were built atop their graves in an effort to conceal the plots. This was done to prevent the bodies from being disinterred by Indians.

Their graves are located alongside Highway 585, 14 1/2 miles south of Sundance. For you GPS types, go to N44 13 06.8 W104 16 02.6. Take exit 187 off Interstate 90 and drive south until you reach the state historical marker below.  The marker is located on the east side of Highway 585. Inyan Kara mountain is off to the west. Behind the historical marker, up on the side of a hill, you will notice a small white picket fence.  These are the graves of Cunningham and Turner. You will need to walk to the graves.

Historical marker for the 1874 Black Hills Expedition along Highway 585 south of Sundance, Wyoming.

The picket fence surrounding the graves of Cunningham and Turner is on the upper right.  Inyan Kara can be seen in the distance.

Another view of the fence and Inyan Kara.

The graves of Privates Cunningham (Troop H) and Turner (Troop M), 7th U.S. Cavalry.